Ingredients
Apples; Sugar; Ginger; Grains of Paradise; Mace; Nutmeg; Galangal; Cloves; Anise Seeds; Red Sandalwood
LM refers to “pommes cuites” or cooked apples many times in his menu planning, but gives us extremely little direction on how they might be served. We know from his shopping lists that they are served with sugar, and may also be served with blancmangier, or with white comfits on top. The snip from 52 specifies cider apples for the servants, indicating this is not especially high fare, but also calls for precious sugared spices. This makes me think this was a specific treat, but one of a lower caliber. Therefore, I am serving these in the first half of the feast, and I have chosen to use sugar and a showcase of spices – omitting the omnipresent cinnamon, the pairing with which of apples is entirely banal to the modern eater. Instead, we’ll include the most popular spice of the time, Ginger, the familiar “pie spices” but also Galangal and Grains of Paradise to give it unique character representative of the time and place without overshadowing the apples themselves. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to source the Calville Blanc d’Hiver apples I hoped to serve – a variety very close to what would have been available at the time – but Granny Smith is a less glamorous and still lovely cousin.
References
LM 52, 46, 49, 54, 55
Modern Redaction
| 4 each | Apples (Granny Smith) |
| 1/2 t. | LM Minor Spices |
| 1/4 t. | Ginger |
| 1/4 t. | Grains of Paradise |
| 3 oz. | Sugar |
| Yield: 8 servings |
- Optionally, peel the apples. There is no indication for this in any reference, but the modern palate may demand it.
- Halve the apples, and core them, removing all stem and seeds
- Cut each half into four wedges
- Toss the wedges with the remaining ingredients and lay out on a sheet pan
- Roast in a preheated 400°F oven for 10 minutes
- Turn the apples gently, and roast another 5-10 minutes to reach the desired texture
- Serve warm or room temperature, with or without candied fennel seeds on top